Making sure I understood this.

I saw the unassembled theremin on zzounds and saw the picture of the natural wooden colored "box" (is it called the "body"?). Below, though, I saw something about black finish. From what I read, looks like you have to paint the "box" with paint htey give you. Am I right?

If you buy the kit, you may paint the raw wooden box with whatever (metal free!) paint you want.

But does the kit come with paint or do I have to buy it?

As far as I know, it comes without paint because they surely don't know which color each client will prefer...

I recommend using a scumble rather than paint in order to keep the wood's structure visible.

What's a scumble? May spray paint work? I think it might still be possible to see the grain of the wood with spay paint.

Spray paint will perhaps work, but using that may be a lack of style...

"scumble" is a synonym for "glaze" (says dict.leo.org).

German: "Lasur"

French: "lasure"

In every case, that's a kind of paint which does not cover or obturate the wooden surface, but diffuses into the wood by changing its shade while conserving its structure. After that, one may apply clear coat for protection.

You'd be best off looking for and using a wood "stain" basically a wood dye.
Comes in most colours/shades, even black.

But its your instrument, you colour it whatever you like.

Thierry, that is the best description of colouring wood I have ever heard.

Regards

MarkT

I hope my description is not too ridiculous...

Off topic:
It is very difficult for me to express myself in English since I learned it only during 3 years, and that about 30 years ago. I really would prefer discussing in French or German, the two languages I grew up with.

Glue,
If the Theremin cover is of a soft wood, such as pine or poplar, a wood conditioner would be indicated for application before a wood stain could be used with the certainty of an even coverage.

Thierry:
I agree with MarkT, the disciptive powers you possess in English are top notch.

Good Luck!

teslatheremin

Thierry's advise should be well heeded. If the wood is light in general completion with a honeyed grain it is likely a soft wood and a prestain conditioner should be applied before staining or painting. Finish the wood before treating it with anything first with a 180 to 260 grit sand paper, only rubbing with the grain, for a short while. The follow up with a 400, then a 600 to get a brilliantly smooth feel. Rub it with a soft lint free cloth to remove any dust, then apply a conditioner. After this, familiarize yourself with the stain colors from your local hardware stores. The amount of wonderful colors can make choice a touch one. Use a semi transparent stain so as not to hide the wood grain but instead enhance it. To be safe, test small areas, segregated by strips of painters tape so you can get a clear idea of the color without it mixing or contrasting other test strips. Try multiple coats with to see how the color varies with each until you find a nice shade. Again, as Thierry stated, make sure all your materials (paints or stains) are non-metallic or it will interfere with the Theremins conductance. After this, use a couple of coats of a clear varnish. Experiment, use multiple colors, even consider decoupage. Since you can always paint it after staining, but it is tough to go back once painted without a lot of sanding and mess.
The Moog Etherwave booklet recommends the mini-wax brand, but I found it to0 thick and without any non-natural wood colors.
For the top coats, I found a spray type (semi gloss is my preference) worked much better than a paint on. I just finished (well, to a point I could put the base together and start playing) my first, and the info I am passing on came from weeks of experimenting and a 100+ dollars in finishing material bought just for this project. Cheers.